UD and I found a real gem in a small cafe called La Casa Esteban de Luca in the San Telmo neighborhood of Buenos Aires. This historic house, once inhabited by Argentina's beloved poet and soldier Esteban de Luca (who wrote the country's first national anthem, the Marcha Patriótica), was built in 1786 and declared a National Historic Monument in 1941. Today it's a popular restaurant serving pasta and meat dishes.
For around $30 US, I enjoyed three glasses of lovely dry Argentinean white wine, the super-hero dawg had three draft beers, we shared appetizer plates of empanadas, sirloin carpaccio, a local ham and cheese plate, and a scoop of homemade rustic pate with toasted crostini rounds. The place was bona fide and tourist-free, but thanks to my Underdog's fluent Spanish, we wound up chatting at length with a couple of fun guys at the next table who knew a bit of English and were happy to meet us half way in the communication department. We liked it so much, we returned a couple of days later.
www.welcomesantelmo.com/san-telmo-guide/x8btzk1796/Casa-de-Esteban-de-Luca
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